Stories from the ground.
Every dispatch from here, in one place.
Are Hungarians Really Unfriendly? An American Answer from the Streets of Budapest
The stereotype says Hungarians are cold, even unhappy. After years of greeting strangers across Budapest, an American found…
The Quiet Freedom of Routine: Visa Limbo and a Children’s Day in Hungary
A life built on the absence of routine starts to crave it, somewhere between visa paperwork and a…
Lake Balaton: Hungary’s Inland Sea, and What Waits Beyond Budapest
Hungary is landlocked, so it made a sea of its own. A closer look at Lake Balaton: the…
Why Hungary Shuts Down on May 1 (and America Doesn’t)
May 1 brings Hungary to a standstill. Munka ünnepe is really three holidays stacked on one date: a…
I Thought I Knew Budapest… I Didn’t
Follow a two-year-old through Budapest and the city rearranges itself. On playgrounds, green Buda afternoons, and the small…
At Lake Balaton, a Stranger Fed My Son Cake Through the Fence
Lake Balaton is Hungary's sea, and Siófok its summer capital. A look at the southern shore beyond the…
Hungary Inspired a Career I Didn’t See Coming
A touring musician walked into a Siófok nightclub with a camera and walked out a producer. How an…
What Hungarians Notice About Me Before I Say a Word
Hungary's disznótor, the communal pig feast, is less about the meat than the gathering. From an annual feast…
Budapest Is What You See… Hungary Is What You Miss
A capital is a front door, not a house. Why the real Hungary, and the case for spending…
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